2/14/2009

熱情與哀傷的捷克人

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也許是因為獨自旅行,這一路上陸續遇見幾位捷克男士主動幫忙.這應該是例外,應該是不尋常,但是都讓身為旅人的我感嘆人性的複雜,一個國家或是民族的形象,是不能也不宜以一兩句話來概括形容的.Stereotypes實在是人類文化中的黑洞啊!

我碰到的第一個捷克好男人是在到達庫倫洛夫的第一個晚上.

我知道冬季的布拉格4點就開始入夜了,所以本來就打算做早晨11點的巴士到庫倫洛夫,這樣到達目的地時還不會太黑.沒想到當初在台灣沒有先網購student agency的票是錯誤的,我前一晚要訂時已客滿,只好改搭下一班車.那天晚上走在荒涼又下著大雪的夜裏,先是有個英文很好心腸也好的捷克女孩幫我問路並陪我一邊走到靠近市區的交叉口才離開.接著就是一路領教捷克人指引方向的本事.

提著重得要命的行李箱獨自上下樓梯,在看來無止境的石板路上拖著越來越沉重的行李箱,實在不是愉快的事.等到我終於找到hostel skippy時,我心裡只有一個問題就是-怎麼離開這個鬼地方?

沒想到hostel skippy的主人留著紙條在門上,"午夜才回來"....其他的就不再重覆了.那位在大雪的夜裏熱心得幫我撥電話通知民宿老闆的胖胖男人.我很感謝他.雖然他不懂英語,我不懂捷克語.但是我誠心希望他看得出來我銘感五內的心情.

Well, I should have give him a kiss on the cheek...hehehe

然後是轉戰到Telc,另一個世界遺產小鎮時,一位自願帶我從巴士站走到市中心的捷克男人.我們嘗試著要溝通,但是語言的隔閡實在太大了.從巴士站走到市中心還不是普通的遠,對拖著行李又不清楚方向的旅人來說,更是遠.一路上捷克男人主動幫我拉行李箱.我得承認心裏不是沒有想過 other possibilities,那時連連對著天上聖母祈禱,接著聞到他身上濃濃酒味,再加上幾次狼獊險些絆倒,我從為自己擔心開始為他擔心,心裏想著"天啊,他該不會在途中昏倒在我旁邊吧?!我...不會很想幫他做CPR..."...冬夜裏的捷克小鎮,一路上不超過8個路人,我只能重覆那個僅知的捷克文namesti(意思是廣場)不斷和他確認方向.好不容易終於到了廣場,一片黑暗,那位捷克男士剛好碰到他的朋友(至仍不確定那位是男士還是女士),那位朋友再帶我去就在市中心的民宿.沒想到按了多次門鈴就是沒人應答.那位捷克男士的朋友竟然就熱心的拿出自己的手機撥電話給民宿老闆.

我的運氣太好了!

我連連和那兩位捷克朋友道謝,一掃之前在student  agency bus 上的不愉快經驗.

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回到布拉格後,搭車前往Kuna Hura著名的人骨教堂,參觀完後,散步走到公車站亭等車回布拉格.

拿著地圖又單獨旅行的東方人似乎有點顯眼.一位坐著等公車的不修邊幅的捷克男士靠過來問我是否須要幫忙.

滿嘴的酒氣混合著煙味,捷克男士說他正在學英文,所以英文不太好,但是他會儘量幫我.但其實我也不太需要他幫忙.

接著他又回座位上坐好,斷斷續續的用捷克語夾雜著英語說他的前妻已經再婚,他很哀傷.

我只好木納又有些尷尬得說...I'm sorry foor that.(這時一同等車的5位捷克老太太們一起轉頭看他)

他再敲敲他的腿說這裏曾受過傷,打著鋼釘,之前還得用輪椅代步.

我忍不住說哇那你現在好多了嘛!

捷克男人又苦笑了一下...看得出來他的狀況不太好.

接著好不容易來了一班公車,5位捷克老太太正排隊等著上車,他跟我說這班不是我要坐的.

嗯...對這混身酒味的男人我還是有些不放心,所以只好當著他的面上車問司機,果然不是我該坐的車.

有些歉意的對他笑了笑,他又哀傷的笑了一下,然後就一拐一拐的離開了

 

謝謝一路上曾經幫助我的捷克人.:-)

2/07/2009

The good, the bad and the uncategorizable experiences in Prague/Krumlov-I

Traveling doesn't always bring good memories, but those bad ones illuminate the good ones.

I dragged my luggage on the cobble road from Tyn Cathedral to Mustek metro station. It is an agonizing trip. I haven't slept much and didn't have much appetite these days. Let me think, what have I eatten for the last three days? I had a baggute, a honey pie and latte, a bagal and latte this morning. That's all. The funny thing is I don't feel hungry nor tired.

I must say the trip from Praha to Krumlov is the most dramatic moments I had so far. First the info center in Andel told me that student agency is "opposite"(his word) the street.

Well, that's a no. The place to wait for  the student agency bus is on the same side, only it's at the end of the street, 500 meters away from the info center. It proves one more time that Information Centre in Prague really don't help much.

Then I got the dirty looks out of the blue from a young lady serves in Student Agency (a bus company that does long traveling in Praha), she literally gave me that look in front of me! I was more shocked than feeling angry. What did i do? I don't bloody know!!!!

Then after getting off the bus in the dark on the remote road with snow covering everything, I realized that I have to drag my luggage for another 20 minutes, then prolong to 30 minutes, then 1 hour.

Krumlov is a castle city with countless stairs and bridges. It may gives the city a sense of layer but it is definately not good news for lonely travelers. Just imagine you have to lift your luggage when going up and down stairs, covered with slippery melted snow.

Have I been naiive about traveling alone? hmmmm

but here comes the most daring part of asking for help in my whole life.

After listening to a least a dozen of different direction from Czech locals, (including one that simply said no with a firm hand gesture and long face) I finally found the way to Hostel Skippy.

I was tired, frustrated and ....to tell the truth i want to go home.

Then I saw that note clipped on the door of the hostel. "I'll be back by midnight, skippy"

what?

Ah, my god!

It's only 8 and it's snowing badly and i'm cold and my mobile still doesn't work( ok, maybe I should have checked up on that before leaving but i didn't).

I left my luggage on the doorstep and start heading back toward the centre for public phones. I saw a chubby young man with a kind face walked in my direction so I asked him if there's any public phones around here.

He gave me that very shy smile and said something in Czech. I guess he meant he can't understand me, he doesn't speak English. I was desperate, I need help. I need my sence of security back. So i decide to push my luck.

I asked him if he can dial the hostel number with his mobile and I'll pay him.

He finally knew what I meant and start dialing up the number with his phone. I got to talk with Skippy on the phone and viola crisis resolved!

I can't tell you how much I appreciate this shy Czech man's help. I offered to pay. He just walked away with that shy smile and say "no money, no money".

Thank you, Mr. anonymous. I've prayed for you.

Skippy helped me to move my luggage upstairs. My first impression fo Hostel Skippy is ...very homey.

The entrance is not spacious some may even describe it as crowded but I really couldn't care that much then. I just need a place to stay.

Skippy then showed me around the house. My room is pretty big for one person. It faces the river and the view is beautiful. Finally we sat down in the kitchen and she is definately a good listener coz I just poured out all the unpleassant things I experienced so far in Czech to her. She's an attentive listener and quite an artist herself. I was pretty talktive that night for some reason and later on I realize that she's a chatter box herself too!

I'd love to return to Hostel Skippy one day with W. The price is good. The double room is beautiful. The hosts, Skippy and Teresa are both wonderful, helpful and with interesting characters. Maybe that's why Hostel Skippy is famous around backpackers. The place has a character indeed.

However I do have some notes about Hostel Skippy:

1. No internet access in the hostel.

2. The shower is a bit unstable with temperature. It can be quite agonizing to have a shower in cold winter night.

3. It's probably not a good place to stay for people with bigger build.

4. The place is a bit challenging to find for foreigners. Do ask Skippy to tell you the easier way to get to the hostel. Don't take the hard road like me!

Here's a pretty truthful account of Hostel Skippy.

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2/06/2009

在布拉格的最後幾個小時

終於要回家了!2天前我恨不得馬上就離開這裏,但是今天下午漫步在新城區的石子路上,卻開始有些捨不得這個假期的結束.

人就是永遠不知滿足啊!

由於再度確認自己的方向感不行,加上自己搬行李真的很吃力.所以我很早就開始出發至機場.check in時為了行李到底要不要跟著我在韓國下機掙扎了一番.這幾天獨自和15公斤的行李加上背包奮戰,我的雙臂實在疼死了.這時候就開始懷念和w一起旅行了.有個人在旁邊一起努力真好.(布拉格大步份的metro出入口都沒有escalater,我住的hostel與pension也沒有,所以一路上都氣喘噓噓的搬著行李上下樓...一邊搬一邊唸...我怎麼這麼勇啊

我事先查了Prague RUZYNE INTL airport可以使用priority pass的地方.最後選crystal lounge. 這裏提供寬敝的座位並附插座,並有簡單的飲料,小點心等.終於有個地方讓我可以愉快的坐下也沒有語言溝通的問題,並沒有白眼和臭臉.ok ok,不再說捷克人壞話了,這一路上還是碰到很多熱情又主動提供協助的捷克人.

就在今天下午我站在繁忙的新城區街頭,拿著地圖開始準備啟程回旅館領取行李時,有個年約70的老人主動靠近問我: Do you need help?

事實上經過n次的迷路加上有厲害的布拉格立體地圖協助,我已經可以順利的找到目的地了.不過為了讓他有發展長才的機會,我還是請他說明如何回到我住的miss sophie.他說他也有一個台灣朋友,每年都會寄big postcard給他...(big postcard 是什麼東西啊?) 總之,我很愉快的接收他的"指引".

不幸途中碰到了beta.忍不住轉進去晃了一下子...好想買啊!我喜歡那雙平底的長靴,太好看了...可是我的行李已經很重了,又沒有多餘的空間,再加上....時間不早了,於是飲恨走出beta.

再見了布拉格!

2/02/2009

A few facts I learned from my first night in Prague在布拉格的第1晚

1. 我的台灣銀行提款卡確定可以使用!

2. 公車站就在機場出站過馬路就到了.要先在售票機買票,但是顯然不接受紙鈔,只好又折回機場買了一瓶39kc的水換零錢

3. 到transfer的站下車後,轉搭捷運.和台北捷運的標示不同,所以到底該在那一側搭車才能往舊城方向啊? 實在讓我有點疑惑.只好捉個看來年輕可愛的OL問一下.可愛的捷克女郎的英文很棒,又很熱情.她說明怎麼看要在那一側搭車的.

例如,若你的目的地是在出發地的右邊,那就搭右側月台的車,若目的地是在出發地的左邊,就搭左側月台的車.

原來如此....

4. Hostel Tyn很難找!至少對我這個路痴而言.問了n個人但一直在同一區轉來轉去.終於找到旅館時我已是在流汗狀態.

5. 並不冷啊? 有點後悔沒帶牛仔褲和短袖來.在室內實在熱得很.

6. Hostel Tyn房間內並無wifi,所以要到廚房才能上網.已用skype 和家人與w報平安.skype真是好東西!

好累...11個小時的飛行讓人又累又乾....

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